Matsuyama (松山) to Onomichi (尾道)
After gathering our luggage and bikes and getting everything set up again, we headed out pretty early. We had to cover 48 kilometers to get to Imabari, which is the official starting point of the Shimanami Kaido. We had no issues in those first 48 kilometers, but when we got to Imabari, we had some issues finding how to get to the first bridge we had to cross. Komoot didn’t really send us the right way, so we tried Google Maps. Google Maps seemingly wants to kill us, because it tried leading us to a highway (expressway specifically, where bicycles and pedestrians are banned). When we were at a large tollgate, there looked to be a small footpath next to the highway that headed in the right direction. Although we were hesitant, we trusted that Google Maps wouldn’t send you somewhere you weren’t allowed to be right? Well, that’s where we were wrong, as we heard ‘止まれ‘ and ‘STOP!’ from behind us. The staff at the tollgate station beckoned us back and explained that we really weren’t allowed to go in there and they gave us a map pointing us towards the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido and they also explained how to get there in broken English and some Japanese. They weren’t mad at all that we had tried to do something very much illegal, it seems as if this wasn’t the first time someone had mistakenly done this. We do know we should doubt Google Maps’ directions just as much as Komoot’s though. When we followed the directions we were given, we soon saw the blue line and bicycle icon on the road indicating this was the correct route. Every now and then it also mentioned how much you had left to get to Onomichi: 73 km when we started for real at half past 1. We knew we wouldn’t be able to cycle the whole thing today, but that would be fine, we’d camp on one of the islands and continue the next day.
The Shimanami Kaido (しまなみ海道)
The Shimanami Kaido was utterly beautiful. To get to the first bridge, we had to cycle up a small asphalt road. We had great, sunny weather, the wind at our backs and the most beautiful view we could have wished for. The old adage “you had to be there” is kind of lame, but also very true, as words could not describe the views and although we have a lot of pictures and video, even those really do not do it justice. Every other cyclist we encountered also seemed to be in a great mood, with some exception of a few sweaty and exhausted looking people the were probably asking themselves what they were thinking when they started this. We cycled another 30km, 1 island and 2 bridges, before dusk started setting in. We headed for a campsite close to where the boat to Okunoshima, also known as ‘rabbit island’ would leave from. It’s not part of the Shimanami Kaido, but it’s something we wanted to see again, as we’d already visited back in winter 2019 and enjoyed it. We hoped to take the boat as early as possible the next morning. When we reached the campsite, we saw that it seemed to be completely abandoned/empty. The facilities were closed down and there was only a patch of grass (and some toilets!), but that was about all we needed. There was also a Family Mart convenience store 100m away, so that made it even better. We saw that there was a sign at the campsite that mentioned the price was 2000 yen per person and if you wanted to use the campsite, you should cycle to the office located a few hundred meters back and pay the following morning. Oh and opening times of the office: 9 am to 5 pm. Yeah, we weren’t going to pay, so we decided to use the toilets and the apparently excellent open WiFi network and set up our tent 10cm outside of the official campsite in what was technically a public park. Think of it what you will, but I don’t think a patch of grass is worth 30 euros a night.
Besides the Family Mart, which had a small eat-in space and outlets (yay!), there was also the Shimanami Dome, which was the local sports complex sporting a pool and onsen. Of course we went there to use the onsen, which is just what you need after cycling a whole day, getting sweaty and sticky. Cleaning yourself off and having a soak in the hot water after really helps with muscle aches and just generally feeling refreshed. We had a good night’s sleep and woke up to our bikes and tent covered with a small layer of ice.
Okunoshima (大久の島): Rabbit Island
The next morning we had a quick breakfast at the Family Mart and headed to the harbour from which the ferry to Okunoshima would depart. It was just a quick 5 kilometers ride away. We parked our bikes there, got our tickets and took the 10 minute ferry to the island. Now, Okunoshima is somewhat of a tourist attraction in the area, as there were English signs everywhere and although we were at the ferry boarding site early, the ratio of foreigners to Japanese people was about 1:1. When we were approaching the island, we could already spot some small shadows with long ears at the ferry terminal. It’s quite a fun experience, when you shake one of the bags of rabbit food (which you can buy at the ferry terminal), rabbits basically sprint towards you from all sides. They are in no way scared of people and you can even feed them by hand and they will happily oblige you.
In a bit of contrast to the cute bunnies, the island has a bit of a darker history as well which can still be seen to this day. The island was used during WWII to develop poison gas weapons, which means that there are several different abandoned, dilapidated buildings and fortifications around the island that you can check out. There’s also a museum explaining more about the history and all in all, the combination of cute rabbits and the poisonous gas-related buildings make it quite the interesting visit. The island isn’t too big either, you can basically see everything in about an hour or 2, which is why we took the next ferry back to our bikes and continued our cycle.
Towards Onomichi (尾道)
Even after our side trip to Okunoshima, it was still pretty early in the morning. We wanted to finish the Shimanami Kaido today and reach Onomichi on Honshu, Japan’s main island. That meant we had time to stop at a small bakery on the way and enjoy some great baked goods before continuing on the last 40km, traversing several imposing bridges, seeing beautiful scenery and battling some headwinds. We reached Onomichi, for which you have to take a ferry ride that lasts about 2 or 3 minutes, at around 3:45 in the afternoon. It was super cool to know we’d reached island three of the four main islands of Japan! Although we’d spend most of our time on Honshu from here on out, being able to say you’ve cycled three out of four sounds pretty good already.
Now we had to decide how to spend the rest of the day and where to camp in the evening. We headed to a viewpoint above Onomichi, which you could reach by cable car; the last one departed at 17:00 so we were just in time. Although we’d had some incredibly beautiful sights in the last few days whilst cycling over enormous bridges and quaint islands, this one was at least on the same level. You could see all of Onomichi and way beyond, whilst the islands we’d just traveled formed this beautiful layered landscape which was only made more beautiful by the setting sun.
After descending the mountain, we headed to one of our classics: a kaiten sushi (回転寿司) chain, this time: Sushiro, had some dinner there and went in search of an onsen or sento to shower and bathe (which was quite necessary, because the Shimanami Kaido is beautiful, but it’s also sweaty work). We found a small bathhouse on the outskirts of Onomichi where the price was about 280 yen per person. I thoroughly enjoy these places, on the men’s side (they are always separated by gender) everyone does their own thing, washing and bathing in silence except for when friends or family go there together. Read the Dutch version to see how different the women’s side is, as Robin had quite a different experience. I exited the bath and saw that Robin was not done yet, so I had a milk coffee (180yen) and waited patiently. I noticed a conversation behind me in the women’s changing room and although my Japanese is quite abhorrent, I could understand Robin was talking with some Japanese women/girls in there. After a bit, two teenage Japanese girls emerged from the changing room and exclaimed: ‘えええ、彼氏？’ (Huh, boyfriend?) from which I gathered they made the connection that I was there with Robin. They asked to take some pictures with Robin (and me as well, probably out of obligation) and we’d left to search for a suitable park to camp for the night. After a few options, we’d found one that seemed to be quiet and we passed out quickly after getting everything set up, as it had been a long day.